Month: September 2019

New Dungeon Ghyll to Windermere. 17.4 miles, 1,591 ft of elevation, 33,072 steps

I feel intimidated, uncool and scared of all the trendy people. Who would have know that tourists would be freaking me out so much. I have hunted out the most down to earth pub and am seeking sanctuary with some dodgy locals. Despite it being out of school holidays, this place is heaving and I don’t like it.

This is what I woke up to this morning, and I had a really special hour or so on my own in the hills seeing the sun burn off the mist and warmth begin to penetrate the valley. What a morning!

After this glorious hour I had clearly left the true fells and entered the tourist trail. Elterwater, Skelwith bridge and on towards lake Windermere the path got easier, the people got fatter and they grew in number. I took my time ….

I even had a late morning nap in the sun. The weather was stunning, Mark would definitely have had his top off again. The entry to the shores of Windermere was through Wray castle which is a fake gothic castle. It didn’t help my feeling of disappointment after leaving the hills. Come on, just cheer up!

The Lake was stunning and I got the £1 crossing over to Bowness and Windermere. A quick stop for a pint and pork pie (with pork scratchings and pickles) and on to my accommodation.

Look – feel my pain. Coaches and tourists, people …….

Keswick to New Dungeon Ghyll. 18.09 miles, 2,352 ft of elevation, 29,935 steps

After significant flaff from Marko and John P and a compulsory bacon sandwich we did not really get moving this morning until 9:30am. We had a big day ahead of us but kept stopping as the views emerged from the low lying cloud and we had our first glimpse across Derwent water

We kept to the west side of Derwent water and then followed the Derwent river to the village of Rosthwaite. The going was fairly easy but hot in the sunshine. What a glorious day. Marko seemed keen to give up and use his free bus pass but we persuaded him to carry on.

The terrain changed once we left the village and we made our way up Stonethwaite beck and into the Langdale Fells. The scenery became more dramatic and John P learnt a new word as we proceeded under various crags and the intimidating ‘stake pass’ came in to view. The cock ups of yesterday (little cock-up and Great cock-up) were distant memories as John P conquered his second hill (mountain).

It’s been great to be able to share two such awesome days with the three amigos, and whilst the chat was less and the puffing a bit more today we have had the Lakes in all its glory and just makes me want to come back for more.

We finished the day with just enough time for the chaps to shower and grab a bite and then they were gone. Peace at last…..

I am now on my own for 7 days so back to selfies I’m afraid and long rambling blogs as I enjoy my quiet beer in the late afternoons. Windermere tomorrow with the promise definitely of some easier walking

Caldbeck to Keswick. 16.23 miles, 2,589 ft of elevation and 26,832 steps (whilst we discovered today that the step counter is totally under selling my actual steps due to my pole/stick work it’s another data point so will keep posting them).

This was the first of two days where the Cumbrian way crosses the true hills of the Lake District and we had a real treat. The day was filled with laughter, terrible jokes (mostly Marko’s), great views, we met some lovely people, and those that decided to pick up their packed lunch had some nice food.

I have too many photos so will just post a load below this blog but a few highlights:

• David Bellamy moments and the resultant wind
• the fact that wherever you go, there is some graffiti that is just always there (even a bothy in Cumbria)
• Colin and Mary, their kind donation and theirs and others real interest in why this walk is taking place
• stunning, perfect scenery
• John P conquering his first hill (mountain). Well done JP.
• some work talk. Just enough and way more than Brexit.
• I knew I was short, but am I really that small

So let’s see how the boys are in the morning. Slightly longer tomorrow but flatter I think…….

Carlisle to Caldbeck. 17.48 miles, 1,411 ft of elevation, 25,462 steps

What a day, England decided to give me a fantastic welcome home. The sun shone all day, There was no pebble dash in sight, lush beautiful fields and glimpses of the Hills in the Lakes and a tease of what is to come over the next couple of days. Bring it on…..

The day started well with a lovely breakfast and a quick call in at the post office for couple of maps, a thank you to Martyn the barber and a coffee from Cafe Nero. It only took a couple of miles to get out of Carlisle and start to feel like I was truly out in to the countryside and on my way to the Lake District.

I followed the river Caldwell with its gently burble and started a relatively flat and easy walk to Caldbeck. The villages were stunning, with the local slate and stone, small streams crystal clear, like glass, running through the heart of the community…. oh we loved it.

Even the kissing gates were rucksack friendly.

I walked past Rose castle which has been the official house of the bishop of Carlisle since the 1200’s and certainly seem some action (and various rebuilds) in its time being very close to those marauding Scots!

A calf being born and the most perfect lunch spot all helped to make me feel warm and cosy coming back in to England.

I ended the day with a cup of tea and a taxi to the hotel to meet Mark, Rob and John. New Dungeon Hotel is our base for the next three nights. We get the taxi back tomorrow morning so light rucksacks for the next two days. I am now doing some planning with wine in an ice bucket and pea ‘n ‘am soup. I mean, how good does it get……

Annan to Carlisle. 11.29 miles, flat as….elevation 285 ft, 21,159 steps

My final stretch of walking in Scotland and then whisked into England for some much needed R&R.

I started the day walking along the edge of the Solway Firth sandbanks – reminded me of Greatstone with its mudflats but probably more picturesque and full of bird life rather than kites. The sun was shining and I could see England beckoning me forth with promises of sunshine and proper bitter to drink.

The walking was tough. The path I chose was to avoid road walking but it looked line no one else had had the same idea so it was slow going.

I had to fight my way past miles of MOD fencing as I navigated past the site of the WWI Gretna munitions factory.

If you google ‘Devils porridge’ this is a reference to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s description of what went on here in the First World War. It was the UK’s response to the ammunition shortage – a massive factory was constructed and inhabited mostly by women mixing wool with nitro-glycerine to make cordite for the shells. Definitely a smoke free work place….After negotiating the miles of fencing I made my way towards Gretna. As a final gesture from my parents they then took me to Carlisle. This was to avoid a rather dismal 6 miles on the service road to the M6. Cheating? Maybe but this gave me precious time in Carlisle to do some shopping and get myself sorted for the assault on the Lakes District.

So – in to England we go. New haircut, a new wardrobe (or pants, socks, shorts) a radio for the rugby, The man feels fantastic.A very special mention to Martyn my barber. A man fighting his own demons but working hard and generous to a fault. Thank you for the chat, the donation and all the best in the weeks/years ahead. If you are in Carlisle go get your hair by Martyn. He made a good job of mine!And not to forget my parents. Thanks to you both for the company, the support, the lunchtime coffee and the chat. See you again down south…..

Lockerbie to Annan. 17.16 miles, 1,030 ft of elevation, 22,514 steps.

A steady day along the Annan again, this time all along the river with the gentle accompaniment of the gurgling of what must be a fabulous salmon river. The morning followed the same format as yesterday and my parents joined me at the half way point with a coffee and biscuit. Dad then walked from there.

How many photos of a river can you take? Quite a few actually but I will only include a couple.

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I’ve met some lovely people along the way today and in particular had a lovely chat and walk with Fiona Anderson and her four rescue dogs, and with the Spanish barman at the Queensbury Arms (the only Spaniard in Annan). – not a surprise really.

I had a lovely meal with my parents this evening and as Dad pointed out I booked it and he paid (no change there since 1971)..

Tomorrow is a means to an end. It’s not a pleasant walk but I will be crossing over to England and in to the Lake District so will feel like a real milestone.

Feet still a bit sore and may have weirdly picked up a couple of minor blisters which is annoying after almost three weeks. Still only a day on my own before I meet up with three retrobates and we attempt the Lakes properly.

Thank you Scotland. Despite the rain it’s been brilliant and have met so many lovely people. Plus, not a single midgy bite. The silver lining….

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Moffat to Lockerbie. 19.99 miles, 1,637ft of elevation, 33,578 steps

The day started well with a lovely breakfast served by an ex squaddie who was going to do the Southern Highland Way next week during a weeks holiday. He very kindly donated to STARS and started me off with a positive feeling.

This mornings walk was again following the Annan although much of it was away from the river and through muddy fields or local roads.

I spent a good hour listening to radio 2 and signing along to Aha and Pet shop boys. I had a very attentive audience with all eyes firmly fixed on me as I walked through fields of sheep. Unfortunately, many of them had a distinctly bored look on their face so clearly weren’t giving me their full attention.

I also saw a rather morbid scare crow cleverly constructed using a flag pole and a couple of dead crows. Someone taking a literal approach clearly.

This afternoon I was joined by my parents and after fortifying me with coffee and biscuits we headed off for the afternoon. Dad stuck with it and we did 9+ miles almost all on tarmac. He is hoping to join tomorrow as well so I hope I haven’t pushed him too far……

We visited the cemetery and looked at the memorial that marked the tradegy that sadly put Lockerbie on the map in 1988. Very moving as being so close to Christmas there were a lot of families and young students on the plane returning home to the US for the holidays.

As I don’t have many photos for today I thought I would treat you to a couple of my feet. They are quite sore as I walked all day in wet shoes and so they look very soft and wrinkly. Let’s hope they recover for tomorrow……

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Crawford to Moffat. 18.88 miles, 1,470 ft of elevation, 26,893 steps

What a fabulous day. From the word go the day has been stunning sunshine and finally I have seen Scotland in its finest. I had made my own trail today and was unsure of the Roman road that I had plotted through both arable farmland and wooded forestry plantations. It was shown as clear on the ordnance survey maps and they were certainly easily identifiable but boy were they tough going. It was remote, hard work and very wet under foot……

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The lack of any defined path made the going slow. Highlights? I saw a caterpillar (the only interaction I had until Moffat) and walked past a ‘ROMAN LOOKOUT’. I think the photo does it justice….. although perhaps this was not the original.

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I eventually met up with the Annandale way path and to celebrate took a photo of my rucksack. It was so nice i sat down next to the rucksack and had a halfback hour snooze. First nap of the trip – it was lovely so let hope it’s not the last.

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On finally getting to Moffat I had a well earned pint. The plan was to then do a quick bit of clothes washing and relax before meeting Mum and Dad. However I met a lovely couple John and Sandra (and their dog) and stayed a bit longer than planned. What a fantastic couple, a genuine highlight of the trip. It’s great to talk to people about why I am doing this walk and makes the whole enterprise worthwhile. Good on you John and Sandra, thanks for engaging with the guy in the T-shirt, and enjoy spending that pension.

To end a perfect day, I then had a lovely meal with my parents this evening- they will be joining me as we complete the last few days in Scotland following the river Annan. England here we come…..

Biggar to Crawford. 17.82 miles, 2,418 ft of elevation, 25,947 steps.

After yesterday’s road marathon, today was much more interesting as I hiked over Crannies Hill, Duncangill head and past Cowgill upper reservoir. The day started fine and then turned to a ‘soft rain’ (as described by my one and only interaction today). When I then started heading off the main track the weather gradually got worse until it was a full on drenching.

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These are the four selfies that clearly show the gradual deterioration in weather and the smile that disappears with it.

However , it was a lovely walk and very satisfying. This route was planned last minute in Glasgow with Kate and was a necessary detour to sort out accommodation last night.

Tonight’s rest is in Crawford which seems very much a village that time forgot. The main Virgin train line rushes through but it has no station. It Is just off the A74M, no pub and the only sign of life is a truckers stop (which I am in now) which is showing the Sweeney on an old square TV. It would be a great setting for an episode of inspector Morse. “There’s been a murder’. Perhaps in the dodgy toilet/shower block with its peeling paint and hand towel that’s not been washed for months.

Ironically the sun has now come out and I can see on top of the hills the wind farm that I walked through in the clouds.

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Time for an early night I think…….

Lanark to Biggar. 19.15 miles, 1,693ft of elevation, 28,393 steps

Not the most exciting day. An early start after a great night at the Scottish Equine B&B (didn’t see a single equine whilst I was there). I took a detour from my route to see the Clyde Falls which was the conclusion of the Clyde walkway and voted one of the top ten most romantic spots in Scotland. I shared it with a few midges, a poster about William Wallace’s death and a light drizzle so I would beg to differ. It was impressive though.

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The rest of the day was along country lanes, very quiet but quite pleasant and a chance to use Mick’s radio (thanks Mick). I enjoyed Women’s hour, a short and confusing play and the midday episode of the Archers. Radio 4 really is great company when you need it.

Feeling bored, I took a detour up the only peak for miles around. I do struggle a bit with the Scottish right to roam as it means there are few actual footpaths. I confidently climbed up over a gate and up a couple of fields. The last hurdle was a gate that by now had a gathering of inquisitive cows. The longer I stayed and pondered the wisdom of walking through this field, the more joined at the gate. Then, I spotted him. A rather lovely looking bull who was clearly VERY fertile and enjoying himself amongst his harem. I turned around and decided the view was good enough from where I was.

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So that was my day. I have very sore feet from so much road walking but nothing a good pie can’t sort out.. a special photo to finish just for you Grace.