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Caldbeck to Keswick. 16.23 miles, 2,589 ft of elevation and 26,832 steps (whilst we discovered today that the step counter is totally under selling my actual steps due to my pole/stick work it’s another data point so will keep posting them).

This was the first of two days where the Cumbrian way crosses the true hills of the Lake District and we had a real treat. The day was filled with laughter, terrible jokes (mostly Marko’s), great views, we met some lovely people, and those that decided to pick up their packed lunch had some nice food.

I have too many photos so will just post a load below this blog but a few highlights:

• David Bellamy moments and the resultant wind
• the fact that wherever you go, there is some graffiti that is just always there (even a bothy in Cumbria)
• Colin and Mary, their kind donation and theirs and others real interest in why this walk is taking place
• stunning, perfect scenery
• John P conquering his first hill (mountain). Well done JP.
• some work talk. Just enough and way more than Brexit.
• I knew I was short, but am I really that small

So let’s see how the boys are in the morning. Slightly longer tomorrow but flatter I think…….

Carlisle to Caldbeck. 17.48 miles, 1,411 ft of elevation, 25,462 steps

What a day, England decided to give me a fantastic welcome home. The sun shone all day, There was no pebble dash in sight, lush beautiful fields and glimpses of the Hills in the Lakes and a tease of what is to come over the next couple of days. Bring it on…..

The day started well with a lovely breakfast and a quick call in at the post office for couple of maps, a thank you to Martyn the barber and a coffee from Cafe Nero. It only took a couple of miles to get out of Carlisle and start to feel like I was truly out in to the countryside and on my way to the Lake District.

I followed the river Caldwell with its gently burble and started a relatively flat and easy walk to Caldbeck. The villages were stunning, with the local slate and stone, small streams crystal clear, like glass, running through the heart of the community…. oh we loved it.

Even the kissing gates were rucksack friendly.

I walked past Rose castle which has been the official house of the bishop of Carlisle since the 1200’s and certainly seem some action (and various rebuilds) in its time being very close to those marauding Scots!

A calf being born and the most perfect lunch spot all helped to make me feel warm and cosy coming back in to England.

I ended the day with a cup of tea and a taxi to the hotel to meet Mark, Rob and John. New Dungeon Hotel is our base for the next three nights. We get the taxi back tomorrow morning so light rucksacks for the next two days. I am now doing some planning with wine in an ice bucket and pea ‘n ‘am soup. I mean, how good does it get……

Annan to Carlisle. 11.29 miles, flat as….elevation 285 ft, 21,159 steps

My final stretch of walking in Scotland and then whisked into England for some much needed R&R.

I started the day walking along the edge of the Solway Firth sandbanks – reminded me of Greatstone with its mudflats but probably more picturesque and full of bird life rather than kites. The sun was shining and I could see England beckoning me forth with promises of sunshine and proper bitter to drink.

The walking was tough. The path I chose was to avoid road walking but it looked line no one else had had the same idea so it was slow going.

I had to fight my way past miles of MOD fencing as I navigated past the site of the WWI Gretna munitions factory.

If you google ‘Devils porridge’ this is a reference to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s description of what went on here in the First World War. It was the UK’s response to the ammunition shortage – a massive factory was constructed and inhabited mostly by women mixing wool with nitro-glycerine to make cordite for the shells. Definitely a smoke free work place….After negotiating the miles of fencing I made my way towards Gretna. As a final gesture from my parents they then took me to Carlisle. This was to avoid a rather dismal 6 miles on the service road to the M6. Cheating? Maybe but this gave me precious time in Carlisle to do some shopping and get myself sorted for the assault on the Lakes District.

So – in to England we go. New haircut, a new wardrobe (or pants, socks, shorts) a radio for the rugby, The man feels fantastic.A very special mention to Martyn my barber. A man fighting his own demons but working hard and generous to a fault. Thank you for the chat, the donation and all the best in the weeks/years ahead. If you are in Carlisle go get your hair by Martyn. He made a good job of mine!And not to forget my parents. Thanks to you both for the company, the support, the lunchtime coffee and the chat. See you again down south…..

Lockerbie to Annan. 17.16 miles, 1,030 ft of elevation, 22,514 steps.

A steady day along the Annan again, this time all along the river with the gentle accompaniment of the gurgling of what must be a fabulous salmon river. The morning followed the same format as yesterday and my parents joined me at the half way point with a coffee and biscuit. Dad then walked from there.

How many photos of a river can you take? Quite a few actually but I will only include a couple.

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I’ve met some lovely people along the way today and in particular had a lovely chat and walk with Fiona Anderson and her four rescue dogs, and with the Spanish barman at the Queensbury Arms (the only Spaniard in Annan). – not a surprise really.

I had a lovely meal with my parents this evening and as Dad pointed out I booked it and he paid (no change there since 1971)..

Tomorrow is a means to an end. It’s not a pleasant walk but I will be crossing over to England and in to the Lake District so will feel like a real milestone.

Feet still a bit sore and may have weirdly picked up a couple of minor blisters which is annoying after almost three weeks. Still only a day on my own before I meet up with three retrobates and we attempt the Lakes properly.

Thank you Scotland. Despite the rain it’s been brilliant and have met so many lovely people. Plus, not a single midgy bite. The silver lining….

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Moffat to Lockerbie. 19.99 miles, 1,637ft of elevation, 33,578 steps

The day started well with a lovely breakfast served by an ex squaddie who was going to do the Southern Highland Way next week during a weeks holiday. He very kindly donated to STARS and started me off with a positive feeling.

This mornings walk was again following the Annan although much of it was away from the river and through muddy fields or local roads.

I spent a good hour listening to radio 2 and signing along to Aha and Pet shop boys. I had a very attentive audience with all eyes firmly fixed on me as I walked through fields of sheep. Unfortunately, many of them had a distinctly bored look on their face so clearly weren’t giving me their full attention.

I also saw a rather morbid scare crow cleverly constructed using a flag pole and a couple of dead crows. Someone taking a literal approach clearly.

This afternoon I was joined by my parents and after fortifying me with coffee and biscuits we headed off for the afternoon. Dad stuck with it and we did 9+ miles almost all on tarmac. He is hoping to join tomorrow as well so I hope I haven’t pushed him too far……

We visited the cemetery and looked at the memorial that marked the tradegy that sadly put Lockerbie on the map in 1988. Very moving as being so close to Christmas there were a lot of families and young students on the plane returning home to the US for the holidays.

As I don’t have many photos for today I thought I would treat you to a couple of my feet. They are quite sore as I walked all day in wet shoes and so they look very soft and wrinkly. Let’s hope they recover for tomorrow……

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Crawford to Moffat. 18.88 miles, 1,470 ft of elevation, 26,893 steps

What a fabulous day. From the word go the day has been stunning sunshine and finally I have seen Scotland in its finest. I had made my own trail today and was unsure of the Roman road that I had plotted through both arable farmland and wooded forestry plantations. It was shown as clear on the ordnance survey maps and they were certainly easily identifiable but boy were they tough going. It was remote, hard work and very wet under foot……

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The lack of any defined path made the going slow. Highlights? I saw a caterpillar (the only interaction I had until Moffat) and walked past a ‘ROMAN LOOKOUT’. I think the photo does it justice….. although perhaps this was not the original.

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I eventually met up with the Annandale way path and to celebrate took a photo of my rucksack. It was so nice i sat down next to the rucksack and had a halfback hour snooze. First nap of the trip – it was lovely so let hope it’s not the last.

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On finally getting to Moffat I had a well earned pint. The plan was to then do a quick bit of clothes washing and relax before meeting Mum and Dad. However I met a lovely couple John and Sandra (and their dog) and stayed a bit longer than planned. What a fantastic couple, a genuine highlight of the trip. It’s great to talk to people about why I am doing this walk and makes the whole enterprise worthwhile. Good on you John and Sandra, thanks for engaging with the guy in the T-shirt, and enjoy spending that pension.

To end a perfect day, I then had a lovely meal with my parents this evening- they will be joining me as we complete the last few days in Scotland following the river Annan. England here we come…..

Biggar to Crawford. 17.82 miles, 2,418 ft of elevation, 25,947 steps.

After yesterday’s road marathon, today was much more interesting as I hiked over Crannies Hill, Duncangill head and past Cowgill upper reservoir. The day started fine and then turned to a ‘soft rain’ (as described by my one and only interaction today). When I then started heading off the main track the weather gradually got worse until it was a full on drenching.

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These are the four selfies that clearly show the gradual deterioration in weather and the smile that disappears with it.

However , it was a lovely walk and very satisfying. This route was planned last minute in Glasgow with Kate and was a necessary detour to sort out accommodation last night.

Tonight’s rest is in Crawford which seems very much a village that time forgot. The main Virgin train line rushes through but it has no station. It Is just off the A74M, no pub and the only sign of life is a truckers stop (which I am in now) which is showing the Sweeney on an old square TV. It would be a great setting for an episode of inspector Morse. “There’s been a murder’. Perhaps in the dodgy toilet/shower block with its peeling paint and hand towel that’s not been washed for months.

Ironically the sun has now come out and I can see on top of the hills the wind farm that I walked through in the clouds.

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Time for an early night I think…….

Lanark to Biggar. 19.15 miles, 1,693ft of elevation, 28,393 steps

Not the most exciting day. An early start after a great night at the Scottish Equine B&B (didn’t see a single equine whilst I was there). I took a detour from my route to see the Clyde Falls which was the conclusion of the Clyde walkway and voted one of the top ten most romantic spots in Scotland. I shared it with a few midges, a poster about William Wallace’s death and a light drizzle so I would beg to differ. It was impressive though.

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The rest of the day was along country lanes, very quiet but quite pleasant and a chance to use Mick’s radio (thanks Mick). I enjoyed Women’s hour, a short and confusing play and the midday episode of the Archers. Radio 4 really is great company when you need it.

Feeling bored, I took a detour up the only peak for miles around. I do struggle a bit with the Scottish right to roam as it means there are few actual footpaths. I confidently climbed up over a gate and up a couple of fields. The last hurdle was a gate that by now had a gathering of inquisitive cows. The longer I stayed and pondered the wisdom of walking through this field, the more joined at the gate. Then, I spotted him. A rather lovely looking bull who was clearly VERY fertile and enjoying himself amongst his harem. I turned around and decided the view was good enough from where I was.

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So that was my day. I have very sore feet from so much road walking but nothing a good pie can’t sort out.. a special photo to finish just for you Grace.

Hamilton to Lanark. 20.87 miles, 1,693 ft of elevation, 28,448 steps

A lovely day of warm dry weather and sunshine. It quickly felt like we had escaped the suburbs of Glasgow and were soon out in more rural landscape. The day was spent alongside the river Clyde again and it remained a formidable companion and a nice background to the days walk.

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It’s strange what your mind does when you have hours to yourself and I enjoyed imagining what had become of these owner of the abandoned crutches. The first was discovered broken and leaning against a gate. On going round the corner the second was discovered high up in a tree. I imagined some miracle cure mid way through a walk in which the owner then flung their crutches in wild abandon as far as they could in to the surrounding shrubbery. But then, what would he have been doing on a walk in the middle of nowhere on crutches to start with……

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Lunch was a quick detour in to a tiny hamlet call Crossford. A cup of tea and biscuit purchased, but on taking them outside I was met by a mildly off putting sight. I quickly moved on…..

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Today’s highlight however was definitely learning the story of the castle at Milton Lockhart (or lack of castle). Googling what befell the grand family home I discovered a fantastic story and one definitely for you Tommy Sato. The castle which dates back a few hundred years was purchased by a Japanese actor ‘Masahiko Tsugawa’ in the 1980’s. He took it down brick by brick, transported it back to Japan via the trans Siberian railway (after seeking permission from Gorbachev) and rebuilt it 2 hours outside of Tokyo. It is now used as a Santa Claus museum with over 1,000 Father Christmas figures inside. Just brilliant. If you don’t believe me, here’s the link. https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.scotsman.com/news-2-15012/the-man-who-moved-a-scottish-mansion-to-japan-1-4561585/amp It kept me smiling all day.

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I am staying in a very smart B&B attached to the Lanark race course. Dinner today garlic mushrooms, in garlic sauce on garlic break. WOW, still I have three days before I meet anyone I know.

Central Glasgow to Hamilton. 24.7 miles, 1,355 ft of elevation, 47,776 steps

Thank you Tommy for joining me on what was meant to be a gentle if unexciting walk but ended up being wet, frustratingly long and with a central theme of litter. I also never allowed you a stop for lunch and for that I again apologise.

The plan was a simple one – to meet on the banks of the River Clyde and follow it out of Glasgow onwards to Hamilton. I will continue along the river tomorrow to Lanark.

We were not expecting rural idle and so got what we were expecting. Rubbish (often nicely collected in plastic bags), housing developments, some rather unnecessary ‘no fishing signs’ and evidence of the Scottish obsession with Irn Bru.

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At one point we veered off the rivers edge and walked about a mile along a road. We played ‘count the number of Irn Bru cans lobbed in the verge’. We lost count at 50 before we were half way along the road. We concluded that it must be part of the ritual and high on sugar you just have to chuck the evidence as hard as you can out of the window.

Excitement over, we went through a lovely section of woods with a number of dog walkers struggling with too many yappy dogs and saw lots of little bits of wood nailed to numerous trees. One of the dog walkers told us that it was a local chap who started to put up doors for the tree faries and all the children joined in. There were loads of them but our favourite was the below:

Then it rained. Hard. And this is when the walk lost its adventure and became frustrating. I took Tom through a swamp and then tried to navigate over the M74. The previously well marked ‘Clyde walkway’ decided to give up, we hacked our way along the side of the motorway only to have to turn back and walk the most convoluted route over the motorway almost teasing the walker ‘how dare young choose this ridiculous choice of motion when we have the fast, noisy motorcar. You shall walk an unnecessary mile as we force you over and under this lovely conveyor belt of noise and pollution’. (can you tell it annoyed me).

So after this stupid diversion we then came to the Strathclyde Country Park, and the commonwealth ‘rowing dory’. It seemed endless and we had great fun critiquing Mark Duntan’s stupid sport for the additional 2 Miles’s this took us.

Finally we arrived at the beautiful OYO hotel. A quick beer with Tom, a shower and now the curry. A great, tiring day. It must get prettier again from here……

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One quick shout out to the Newton arms in Newton. A scary, rough looking pub that gave us free tea and biscuits whilst listening to 1980’s hits and admiring the decor. (I dare you to look it up on trip advisor – they were lovely).